2015
California was in its fourth consecutive year of drought, the Sierra snowpack had dwindled to 8% of average, and mandatory water restrictions were in effect for many residents. Yet despite these alarming conditions, the 2015 vintage may well be one worth cellaring. A warm winter, dry soil conditions and a long, cool spring ultimately defined the vintage with an exceptionally early harvest and light yields.
2014 ended with a significantly warm December, combined with several back-to-back stormfronts. Here in the Russian River we received nearly 15” of rain in December alone. Though we did not receive any significant rainfall again until February, the lack of water in our local Goldridge soils and warm winter temperatures worked together to force an early spring. Budbreak at our Sonoma Coast and Russian River vineyard sites began three weeks ahead of 2014. The month of May brought dramatic cooling, and these early bloom cold temps kept the flowers of many of the grapes closed, unable to self-pollinate, potentially creating a phenomena known as “shatter” and ultimately an overall reduction in final grape yields. Despite the significant spring cool-off, the seasonal drying trend continued through early summer, accelerating bloom and shoot growth ahead of schedule.
We witnessed veraison the first week of July at the Hallberg Ranch and Alberigi vineyard. As the berries grew and then began to change color we soon realized that most of our vineyards, across all varietals, had small berries and reduced yields from either shatter or millerandage (hens and chicks). Smaller berries (especially in thin skinned Pinot Noir) simply cannot withstand intense heat and will begin to desiccate if left on the vine after physiological ripeness has occurred.
Harvest began August 14th, the earliest pick-day for us at Radio-Coteau since we began in 2002. Grapes trickled in throughout August as temperatures fell and allowed for some additional time on the vine. Then 6 days of intense heat was forecasted, and all the remaining Pinot Noir came off the vine by Sept. 5th. We are committed to picking grapes before desiccation sets in from prolonged sun exposure. As non-interventionist winemakers, this is critical to preserve natural acidity, keep alcohol levels moderate, and retain freshness in all of our wines. The Syrah and Zinfandel typically ripens later and was able to hang out there for a few more weeks, though all of our fruit was off of the vine by October 5th.
With grape yields down approximately 30% below average, the wines naturally have a gratifying density to them, and superb color extraction due to the high skin to juice ratio in tank. We utilized more delicate pump-overs in the fermenters this year to preserve elegance in this seductive vintage. Overall, the wines of 2015 are showing lots of vitality and distinction. Naturally balanced acidity is a common thread throughout the various lots, as well as fine-grained tannins. These elements should come together to create a classic age worthy vintage.