April 2022 | 95 points
“Richard Savoy planted this vineyard in the early 1990s, on pastureland at the meeting of Gowan Creek and the Navarro River, deep into northeastern Anderson Valley. Cliff Lede purchased the site in 2011 and farms it organically. A parcel with three clones—Martini, 115 and Pommard—goes into Eric Sussman’s 2019, which shows the complexity of the mixed plant material in the spice of plump rosehips, the richness of fresh figs, the lasting scent of a coastal redwood forest. Meaty and ripe, this wine has direction and a tight focus, suited to age and delicious now if you decant it for partridge or other dark meat game birds.”–J.G.