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July 2017 | 95 points

“If you’re familiar with the wild, woodsy scent of Sonoma Coast syrah, check out this pinot noir. There’s a rawness to it that’s irresistibly compelling—piney, almost abrasive tannins, a feral scent of tanned leather and a more lifted violet scent. The fruit comes from a biodynamically farmed site on the cool southern edge of the Freestone-Occidental hills. In a warm year like 2014, those vines seemed to draw energy from the cooling wind and fog of the nearby Petaluma Gap, the fruit accumulating a dynamic pungency that transforms the wine into something completely delicious as it takes on air. The tannins soften, the layers of flavor become harmonious and supple. Eric Sussman’s hands-off winemaking—no additions other than sulfur—contribute to this wine’s sense of individuality; it feels more about site than generic “pinot noir” typicity, and will be a fascinating wine to watch over the next decade.”

–Luke Sykora
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